Unwiring Bonsai

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I’m proud to say I am making progress in my goal to improve the quality of the bonsai in my collection. I have spent way too many years playing with SIPs (sticks-in-pots)! But as my trees improve, I am discovering one of the down sides — one tree can involve LOTS of wire!

Vicary privet shown in Spring 2021

This privet is a good example. Since it is relatively early in its styling and development, a nearly full wiring job was necessary this spring. I was able to apply the wire with all of last year’s leaves removed — in winter image as it were — but removing the wire was a far more delicate task that required great care not to damage the leaves that now cover the tree.

An interior shot midway through wire removal. There’s lots of wire in there!

Removing so much wire really gave me some time to reflect on this as a bonsai practice. I was able to think about what I have been taught, what my own habits are, and where those two don’t necessarily line up.

So how are we supposed to remove wire from bonsai?! (And how do I do it?) The shortest version of the story is this: The experts say you should cut the wire off, but I tend to unwind in many cases, but not all. Which I choose is based on the safest approach for the tree.

When the wire is particularly thick, I usually cut it. Using a good pair of bonsai wire cutters with a blunt tip to cut once every rotation allows you to remove the wire in pieces without the force of the thick wire pressing in precarious ways against the bark and causing damage. Trying to cut thin wire, however, is more risky.

Cutting tiny wire may be a bad idea so I usually unwind.

Thin wire is used on thin branches. Cutting thin wire would involve a lot of very close encounters between a cutting tool and a thin branch. In my opinion, the risk of cutting a branch is too great, so I unwind it. But this also needs to be done carefully.

To unwind, I find the end of a wire as a place to start. If necessary, I use jin pliers to grab hold of the tip of the wire and begin pulling it away from the branch. I will sometimes continue to hold the tip with the pliers for a few rotations, but other times I get it started and then guide the unwinding with my finger tips.

Beware the treacherous wire hooks!

Either way, I am always very careful to keep hold of that last bend at the end of the wire. The sharp tip, plus a hook shape makes for a very effective leaf tearing tool. So keep hold of it to prevent that hook from being pulled through the leaves you are trying to protect.

The wire starts to pile up.

The most effective process I have found for unwinding may seem obvious to some, but let me briefly explain it anyway. Unwind it the reverse of how you put it on. Find one end. Unwind it back to the branch intersection where the wire turns onto another branch, and stop. Then find the other end of the same wire and unwind until the first half comes free. Support the branch you are working on as you go, similar to the way you support it as you apply wire.

Once the wire is free of the branches, carefully remove it from the interior of the tree making sure the sharp hook at the back end doesn’t catch leaves on the way through.

There are, of course, times when it’s not so easy. When branches get a bit too dense, you may need to unwind a bit, then cut a part of the wire off to continue without having to weave and thread your way out.

Unwinding wire (at least in the case of aluminum) does have the benefit of being able to reuse the wire, but don’t become so obsessed with this that you make a decision that damages your tree.

This is the corner of my bench where I straighten wire, a topic for another time.

If you decide to reuse, I recommend straightening it first, but that’s a topic for a different post.

The difference of a few weeks

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Let’s do some science – a very straight forward experiment. All other things being equal, what difference do a few weeks make in terms of when you choose to prune spring growth?

Bonsai teachings say we wait to prune new growth until the spring leaves are hardened off. This is a gray area at best for most species, so what is it that we are really waiting for? Or put another way, what does hardening off signal that makes this a good time to prune? Ryan Neil speaks in terms of the tree being energy positive, having regained the resources spent through the winter and the spring flush. If waiting to prune allows the tree to build energy, might waiting longer result in more energy stores that can be measured in stronger growth the following year?

The subject of the experiment will be two boxwood trees, genetically identical, very near the same size and planted in pots with similar dimensions. Growth on these boxwood clones was very consistent and well balanced in spring of 2021 with most spring extensions having 6 leaves. In the year leading up to this baseline, the two trees were treated in a similar fashion including the timing of spring pruning for both plants done within a three day window in May 2020.

In 2021 I applied the same pruning approach to both trees — most spring shoots were reduced to the first pair of leaves, some older leaves were plucked to allow more light and air into the foliage pads, and relatively few other branches were reduced or pruned to improve the structure. The only difference is that they were pruned 5 weeks apart — the twin trunk was pruned on May 16 and the single trunk on June 19.

Will the extra time with hardened leaves provide any notable benefit?

Before pruning May 16, 2021
After pruning May 16, 2021
Before pruning on June 19, 2021
After pruning June 19, 2021

Over the year that followed these trees were treated consistently – water, fertilizer, exposure, winter placement, everything. Both trees are healthy and have shown no signs of pests or disease. As mentioned above, these are genetically identical. In fact, the two trees were split apart at the base from one plant over 15 years ago. Relative to my other bonsai experiments, this all adds up to some pretty strong controls.

June 11, 2022 with no pruning since 2021.

Both trees pushed reliably in 2022. I let them both harden off with no miscellaneous pruning. Now it’s just a matter of measuring this year’s growth. What do you guess the results will show?

I randomly selected a couple dozen shoots to examine on each tree and counted the new leaves. The current year’s leaves are still quite easy to distinguish from last year’s growth which is a much darker green.

The twin trunk tree had 8 leaves per spring shoot.

The twin trunk tree, the one that was pruned earlier in 2021, had eight leaves on the vast majority of new shoots with just a few having ten.

The single trunk tree had 6 leaves per spring shoot.

Almost every shoot on the single trunk tree, the one pruned later, had six leaves with just a few having eight leaves.

This is not what I expected! My hypothesis had been that more time before pruning would result in more stored energy leading to stronger spring growth. I would not have been surprised with no apparent differences, but instead I got the opposite result!

Obviously, there are differences to acknowledge which could explain the measured difference. The pots are both shallow rectangles, but they are not identical. The single trunk vs double trunk makes for easy visual distinction of the subjects, but more relevant is the exact amount of foliage on each tree. I estimate that the twin trunk example carries 20% more foliage just as a factor of its design. Whatever the differences, I am reminded that I had nearer equal growth in spring of 2021.

What could this mean? There are two possibilities that seem most likely:

  1. The differences between the trees are enough to result in the difference in spring growth and the time of pruning was not a significant factor.
  2. Pruning earlier positively contributes to the strength of next year’s flush by allowing the tree more time to build energy into the buds being set for the following spring.

Let’s consider that second possibility with a comparison to the second flush on decandled black pines. We know that JBPs decandled earlier have more time to grow a second flush before the end of the growing season resulting in stronger growth and longer needles on the second flush. JBPs decandled later will have smaller, shorter growth in comparison. Pine growers use this knowledge to time the pruning of trees based on size (larger trees earlier and smaller trees later) or to help balance growth on a single tree by decandling in carefully timed phases.

The boxwoods in our experiment didn’t push a second flush (though boxwoods sometimes can), but could it be that the timing of pruning impacted how much energy was stored in the buds being set for the next year? If bud development is happening between mid May and mid June, could it be that the twin trunk tree was able to store more energy in just two buds per growing tip (at the base of the two new leaves left on the shoot) while the single trunk tree was expending energy to build six buds per tip? …only to have four of those six removed a few weeks later?

This is only a theory, but I am inspired to continue making careful notes about the timing of pruning on these trees as well as other specimens and species in my collection.

Azalea Bonsai

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Satsuki azaleas are named for when they bloom. They are known for blooming in May, the fifth month. Satsuki means “fifth.”

Azalea before work begins

This azalea decided not to bloom until June. And the blooms you see represent only about 50% of the flower buds. The others hadn’t opened yet when I decided to start work on this tree anyway. The first step was to remove all of the flowers and unopened flower buds.

Removed flowers at various stages of bloom

Once that was done the biggest task was to prune down to just two lateral branches of the whorl of branches (often 5) that grow from the base of each flower. It seemed easiest to show you this in a video. Check it out at on YouTube.

Azalea after pruning

A little wire seemed in order as well, and we are done for this season. I will let the tree grow and set buds for next year, and at most I will remove unwanted suckers or branches growing in the wrong direction.

This tree is just in its third season since initial styling and I’m happy with how it is progressing.

Azalea before work
Azalea after work

Big Cuts on a Big Holly

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I collected this holly a few years ago. Did some hard root pruning in spring 2020 to get it into this pot, and have let it grow wild since then. Read about the work from last year here. As you can see, it is big and hairy and needs a trim.

Big holly before styling, June 2021

Don’t be fooled by this front view though. The crown is coming toward you, and back branches need to be positioned and developed to catch up. Here’s a view from the side so you can see what I mean.

View from the side to show how undeveloped the back of the tree is.

This holly has proven to be extremely vigorous, and after this styling I will have to keep on top of it to develop finer branching. I am confident in its ability to back bud and fill in, though. In fact, the first thing I need to do is remove several suckers growing from the base of the trunk.

Removing suckers that will grow all around the base.

The next step is to analyze the structure and remove whole branches that don’t serve the future of the tree. I remove branches that are too thick, in a poor location, pointing the wrong direction, or conflicting with a better branch in the same area. The goal is to leave a better primary structure to build off of. In the image below you can see where several branches have been cut.

Holly showing where several branches have been removed.

The remaining branches were far too long. I shortened them by selecting cuts that would leave a better taper as the branch moved away from the trunk.

A few guy wires were applied to pull primary branches down into position, and a nice shape for the silhouette was my goal for the final length adjustments.

Big holly after initial styling, June 2021

Vacation Watering — It’s Personal

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I’m sure you’ve seen the question posted to bonsai groups, “What do you do for vacation watering?” There are two categories of options: some sort of automatic watering system, or ask/hire a human to do it for you. So, which is best?

The short answer is, it’s a personal choice. You have to do what makes you comfortable. Neither option is failure proof, and let’s face it, if you lose trees because of a watering failure over vacation… well, THAT’S PERSONAL TOO! That’s why I choose an automatic system. I would hate to lose a friend over some water.

My water timer

This is my current water timer. You can get one like it at a home improvement store or online. I have used this a few times and so far it has been very reliable. I have not tried or compared other models so this is not some sort of endorsement for this model over others. It’s just what I have. And it works.

It’s got two outputs and it’s fully programmable. I can water with one hose or both. I can choose what time of day I want the water to start, how long I want it to run, and which days I want it to water. Barring a failure of the device or water supply, I can count on this doing what I ask, which you may or may not be able to say for a neighbor who has other human things going on in their life.

About half of my trees clustered on and around benches in area number 1
And the other half in area number 2.

I choose to use a very simple sprinkler system with the timer. I move all of my trees into two areas that can each be serviced by a basic garden sprinkler. I program and start the system the day before I leave so I can observe the watering and make sure everything, including the water pressure is right.

This is not fool proof. I have a friend who experienced a disastrous failure of his sprinkler system due to an unexpected power outage. This timer is battery powered, but the point stands. You can’t control everything.

When it’s your time to get away, I hope you are able to choose an approach that works for you. It doesn’t have to be what I chose. That choice is personal.

Hate When That Happens

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A strong storm blew threw and sent this very young Japanese maple tumbling off the bench. Unfortunately the pot broke as it made contact with another hard object in the fall.

As we all should, I tie my trees securely into the pot which provides some degree of protection to the root ball. The pot is broken away, but the tree roots and at least some of the soil is held securely together improving the situation until I can discover what happened and gently get it into a different pot. These events beg the question…

How do you secure unstable pots to the bench?

I enjoy being able to — quickly and easily — take up a pot and move it to a work bench, and to be able to rotate pots to get even sun exposure. When I have secured pots to the bench in the past, these simple actions have become much more difficult. This simple conundrum is why many pots are not secured at all and I run the risk of breakage.

Let me know about your habits? Do you tie down pots? How and when do you do it?

The Boxwood has Left its Wood Box

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I am stoked about this old boxwood! I have shared it before (HERE and HERE) and have been doing my best to practice the restraint that is often this bonsai enthusiast’s downfall.

Boxwood in 2017, planted in sand for a year after collection.

This plant was dug from a suburban yard in 2017. At over four feet tall and wide, I had to cut a lot of branches just to haul it home. To make that work I chose to favor the first branch and bend for the future design. Despite the hard cuts, new growth emerged from the upper stump and in other adventitious locations as I gradually worked back the tree over the next couple of years.

It was planted into a large wooden box after a year of recovery in a sandy hole in the ground, and this is the box it has stayed in until this spring. At about 24 inches square and five and a half inches deep, this thing is super heavy! I do not like moving it.

In 2019 the old stump above the first bend was removed. As you might guess, the loss of all those limbs early on caused a significant part (nearly half) of the trunk to die off. I did some carving and removed the bark from the dead roots that were accessible from the surface.

Dead side of the trunk carved in 2019.

Last year was a great year for some strong extension growth that made me feel like the tree was ready for wiring and styling. I decided to first try to get it into a decent pot, but unsure of the state of the roots, I didn’t know if I would be able to reduce it sufficiently to get it into a ceramic container.

Before removing from the wooden box, spring 2021

I had an 18 inch square Anderson flat at the ready in case I decided to reduce the roots in stages, but what I was really hoping for is to get it into this 12 inch pot.

A 12 inch pot propped on the corner of the wooden box.

The one thing I knew I had going for me is that half of the trunk had died back. This meant all of the live roots were coming off one side and there was no need to fit dead roots into the container. And guess what… it worked!

Boxwood in first ceramic pot, spring 2021.

Is that sweet or what?!

I wish I could show you a fully styled tree, but I just couldn’t wait to share. I’m still trying to practice patience and do what’s best for the tree.

At the time of repotting, I did remove unwanted branches, but I am going to wait to wire and prune what remains until the fragile spring buds have had a chance to open up and harden off. I also need to do a little cleaning on newly exposed dead roots.

I am excited about the future of this tree and look forward to sharing the styling with you later this season.

Big Work on a Privet

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This privet was a landscape plant on my property until I removed it from the garden in 2015. Since then I have gradually selected from and reduced nine trunks to three, and reduced the root system to fit in an appropriately sized pot — if not a refined looking one.

Vicary privet, March 2021

Allowed to grow freely for most of last season, this (above) is how it looked in early March, still holing last year’s leaves. The dark green and sometimes purple cast of the leaves is it’s winter color. In spring the leaves are a bright yellow-green which is why I suspect this is a Vicary golden privet, Ligustrum x vicaryi.

Purple color of winter leaves.

The first step of many this spring was to remove the old leaves.

Leave removed.

With leaves removed, I could see what I was working with and apply wire without interference. I wired out most of the branches and set them into a rough placement before repotting.

After building strength last season, dense roots had slowed percolation, so a bit of root pruning and some fresh soil — two parts akadama to one part lava rock and one part pumice — set it up for continued growth and vigor. For now, it is back into the same unrefined pot until I can find or make a better one.

Roughly wired and roots pruned, ready to go back in a pot with fresh soil.

Once secured in the pot, I refined the branch placement a bit and used a couple of guy wires to set the design.

Repotted and wired, March 2021

Spring growth pushed shortly after, and below is what it looked like by the beginning of May. (Don’t mind the pink ribbon. This is just something I use to mark those trees that should be protected from frost if cold temperatures are forecast. I mark all trees that have been repotted this way until the chance of freezing temperatures has passed.)

Spring growth by early May

Many shoots had extended to 8 or 10 leaves marking a good time for spring pruning. Some were even developing flower buds, but flowers are not important for the tree at this developmental stage, so they were removed with pruning.

Flower buds developing at the tips of spring growth

I reduced strong shoots to just 2 or three leaves, and left weak shoots or branches that need to grow out or thicken (like the bottom branch on the left) with more.

I plan to stay on top of the growth, moving forward, to promote ramification and continue to fill in parts of the silhouette that need it.

That was a lot of work on one tree in just a couple of months, but it is on track to continue developing into a nice bonsai.

Autumn Olive as Bonsai

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Like many plant species, Elaeagnus umbellata goes by many names. I call it Autumn Olive. It doesn’t belong in my part of the world, but it grows wild here nonetheless on the sides of roads and edges of wooded areas. I have kept a few individual plants as bonsai for several years, and below is a collection of my observations and conclusions about the species as a bonsai subject.

Elaeagnus umbellata, wired spring 2021
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So, You Just Got a Bonsai…

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You got your first bonsai. Congratulations! Welcome to the wonderful world of bonsai care. Maybe your bonsai was a gift, maybe it was an impulse buy, or maybe you’ve been considering it for quite a while. Whatever the case, there is a lot we should talk about so let’s get started.

Example post from a new bonsai owner.
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